Podcast #190: Ten Steps to Great Long Exposure Images

[bksecret]

Take a look at Martin's new blog post:
"Podcast #190: Ten Steps to Great Long Exposure Images"

http://blog.martinbaileyphotography.com/2009/07/30/podcast-190-ten-steps-to-great-long-exposure-images/

[Pixelated]

Thanks Landon that's very useful.

I was aware that in a RAW only work flow Picture Styles are a waste of time setting on the camera, but I was unaware that the noise reduction setting on my camera for long exposures is equally useless. It can take the camera a long time to do the noise reduction thing in the early hours before dawn when time is of the essence. I'll be turning it off.

Cheers,
Thysje

[bksecret]

Thanks Landon that's very useful.

I was aware that in a RAW only work flow Picture Styles are a waste of time setting on the camera, but I was unaware that the noise reduction setting on my camera for long exposures is equally useless. It can take the camera a long time to do the noise reduction thing in the early hours before dawn when time is of the essence. I'll be turning it off.

Nope, sorry, Long Exposure NR is good for RAW, but High ISO NR is ignored by most anything but manufacturer work flow software. I updated what I meant to say, I was finishing it as I went out the door and should have read it through again.

-Landon

[Martin]

Thanks for starting the thread Landon!

Great additional tips too. I knew you'd be first here!

Good point about the Speedlite too. That one I didn't think to include, because I rarely take a speedlite out with me for Landscape work. I'm sure it would work though, as you say, for closer subjects.

As for Highlight Tone Priority, this is why I no longer use it. When I shot the example image, I was still trying it out, and didn't know that it was linked to DPP at the time. (Of course, we all know that DPP actually stands for Demonic Pagan Plague!) Thanks for pointing that out here. I didn't want to go into detail in the Podcast.

Good point about the polarizer too. I should probably have added that as well.

[bertpalmer]

Thanks Martin, I've been really interested in doing some long exposure work (that doesn't include a car's headlights!) for some time now.

This has been really useful and come just at the right time.

Still, it seems I'm going to have to make a big equipment investment before I can get started!

Thanks again,
Al

[bksecret]

Good point about the polarizer too. I should probably have added that as well.

Hey, it is a great podcast and great list. This is just something I have spent a lot of time doing, so I have tried all kinds of things over the years.

-Landon

[Pixelated]

Thanks for the update Landon!

The podcast is great Martin, thank you. My foray into long exposures only began this year and any hints and tips are most welcome!

Al, if I can experiment with my humble equipment, I'm sure you'll be more than capable with equipment you have.

Not the most wonderful of shots, but I was experimenting only while waiting for dawn and sunrise.
Canon 400D, EF-S17-85mm f/4-5.6 lens,
Manual exposure mode, 74 seconds at f11 (looong time waiting for noise reduction thing in camera afterwards)
Taken at around 5.00am on a pitch black morning before dawn with an overcast sky, with the camera perched on a cheap tripod (I know Martin, and I really do take on board what you said about them).

[bksecret]

Couple more tips that came to me today:

Shoot with two bodies if/when you can. You can have one cooking away doing a long exposure and dark frame subtraction and have a second (or even third) working other ideas that may or may not be long exposure related. Keeps the waiting for 10, 30, 60 minute exposures from getting boring and come away from a long exposure shoot with a couple more keepers possibly.

To maximize your time, if your camera is busy doing dark-frame subtraction, I have often used this time to move the camera to the next location, change focus or zoom settings, even change lenses, prefocus manually, put in your car, all kinds of things while it is cooking before saving the result. Just make sure your exposure is correct and you did not want to take another before moving on. Also don't bump the power switch in the process.

-Landon

[Heimdall]

Haven't listened to the podcast yet, but a couple of little things from me:

* Dress warmly. It's easier to peel off a layer than to put on something you don't have.
* This goes doubly for shoes.
* Bring a good flashlight if you want to paint with light on certain things. I have good experiences with Maglite and Pelican ones.
* Make sure you go to the bathroom before you go out.
* Consider bringing a snack and/or something to drink. When doing 30 minute exposures, the hours rack up quickly.
* Let people know where you'll be going. Safety first.

Sounds trivial, but becomes real important.

[bksecret]

Haven't listened to the podcast yet, but a couple of little things from me:

* Dress warmly. It's easier to peel off a layer than to put on something you don't have.
* This goes doubly for shoes.
* Bring a good flashlight if you want to paint with light on certain things. I have good experiences with Maglite and Pelican ones.
* Make sure you go to the bathroom before you go out.
* Consider bringing a snack and/or something to drink. When doing 30 minute exposures, the hours rack up quickly.
* Let people know where you'll be going. Safety first.

Sounds trivial, but becomes real important.

Great additions!

* Dress warmly. It's easier to peel off a layer than to put on something you don't have.

Did not do that a couple times. The second hour is so much colder than the first 10 minutes.

* This goes doubly for shoes.

Especially if standing in the water! Toes get cold quick if you don't plan for it.

* Make sure you go to the bathroom before you go out.

And if you drink a couple quarts of coffee, plan accordingly.

-Landon

[ForrestTanaka]

To maximize your time, if your camera is busy doing dark-frame subtraction, I have often used this time to move the camera to the next location, change focus or zoom settings, even change lenses, prefocus manually, put in your car, all kinds of things while it is cooking before saving the result. Just make sure your exposure is correct and you did not want to take another before moving on. Also don't bump the power switch in the process.

Ah, thanks for that, Landon. When I've done dark-frame subtraction, I'd wondered if I could do stuff to the camera while it was subtracting. I couldn't imagine a technical reason not to, but by the time I thought about it, I had too much time invested in the exposure to risk it!

[bksecret]

Ah, thanks for that, Landon. When I've done dark-frame subtraction, I'd wondered if I could do stuff to the camera while it was subtracting. I couldn't imagine a technical reason not to, but by the time I thought about it, I had too much time invested in the exposure to risk it!

I do it on nearly every shoot with Nikon gear, cannot imagine there would be any issues, but guess there could be. I have heard too that VR lenses, the camera should be off before mounting and unmounting. I have never, ever followed this rule. I do make sure I have not touched the shutter button or back focus button and engaged VR before yanking it off the mount. Something to concider, but with VR lenses, VR t is turned off anyway when doing long exposures.

-Landon

[Martin]

Good additions for sure, both Landon and Even.

I do shoot with two bodies when doing this stuff, but chose not to go into this in the Podcast for time's sake. It's good to raise that here though.

I didn't realise that you could mess with the lenses etc. while the camera was off doing it's stuff, so that's definitely good to know. Thanks Landon!

[bksecret]

I didn't realise that you could mess with the lenses etc. while the camera was off doing it's stuff, so that's definitely good to know. Thanks Landon!

Well you cannot meter, autofocus and stuff, but how much of that are we doing with long exposures anyway. The viewfinder works, the DoF calculations still work in your head/phone/chart, lens barrels still zoom and focus. Getting setup for the next shot does take some time and thought often, so might as well put it to use and two things at once.

-Landon

[Martin]

Absolutely. I never even thought about whether or not you'd be able to see through the viewfinder. While that light is still on, on the back of my camera, I use the other one!